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'The Food Experiments' Take New York City

'The Food Experiments' Take New York City


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Every year, amateur chefs from across the country gather together in just about every major city and duke it out as part of The Food Experiments. 16, at Brooklyn’s famed Brooklyn Brewery, hundreds of food lovers were on hand to judge the 14 finalists’ dishes and name a winner.

Here were the finalists, with one chosen from each city after beating out lots of other amateur chefs with their winning creation:

Austin, Texas: Dutch Lovin’: Brooklyn Lager eggnog with candied bacon
Sweden: Nordic Bite: Salmon mousse with roasted garlic, dill, and chile peppers on a cracker
Houston: The Magic Hops: "Scotch dates" stuffed with chive cream cheese, wrapped in sausage, and fried
Pittsburgh: The Pork Dorks: Smoked pork dumplings, braised in Brooklyn beer, topped with barbecue sauce and homemade pickles
Boston: Food Alors!: Corn crepe topped with braised beef cheeks and slaw
Atlanta: Bon Rappetite: Chicken thighs braised in Brooklyn Winter Ale, with pickled onions
Washington, D.C.: Win, Lose, or Thai: Crispy fried rice cake, pickled pork, herb salad, and mango caviar
Philadelphia: Jawns 3-D: Cheese polenta topped with roast pork, chiccharon, and marinated shallots atop a Parmesan crisp
Brooklyn, N.Y.: Chef Charles: "Jewel" crusted shrimp with a beef curry and lime cilantro sauce
Chicago: I’ll Be Your Shorty Rib: Whiskey and mustard braised short rib
Columbus, Ohio: Team Funtjarvis: Braised pork on a butternut squash biscuit, topped with apple habanero slaw
New Jersey: Bite Me, This One’s For You: South African-style braised oxtail inside a Taiwanese moon pie
Durham, N.C.: You’re Bacon Me Crazy!: Bacon jalapeño hush puppy ice cream on a toasted corn flour macaron
Minnesota: Chocolate & Spice: Mexican spice chocolate mini-pies

After sampling all of the offerings, it was clear that all of these home cooks were seriously talented. "The line between home and professional cooks is blurring," said Noah Bernamoff, the chef/owner of Mile End Deli who judged the finalists along with Brooklyn Brewery brewmaster Garrett Oliver, last year’s winner and owner of the soon-to-open shuffleboard parlor Royal Palms (under construction in Brooklyn’s Gowanus neighborhood) Jonathan Schnapp, and The Daily Meal’s very own editorial director Colman Andrews. "These cooks have a lot of confidence to go after their passions, and it’s not as tied to experience and pedigree as a while ago. I would happily eat most of this food again," said Bernamoff.

While Andrews made sure to point out that there was a lot of braised meat on offer (and a lot of it was under-spiced or under-seasoned), he thought that "these cooks showed a lot of imagination," and that it was "overall a good representation of American home cooks."

The fan favorites were New Jersey’s Taiwanese moon pie, Houston’s Scotch dates, and Philly’s roast pork with cheese polenta, which won the folks behind Jawns 3-D a knife set, a Dutch oven, and two JetBlue tickets to anywhere they fly. Sweden’s salmon mousse won the prize for Team Spirit.

Then it was time for the judges’ official decisions, for all the glory. The prize for experimentation went to Pittsburgh’s smoked pork dumplings. In third place was Minnesota’s spicy chocolate mini-pies, and in second came Durham’s bacon jalapeño hush puppy ice cream. Taking the Grand Prize was Brooklyn’s own chef Charles, whose shrimp dish won him a Dutch oven, a copper cookware set, knives, $250 cash, two JetBlue tickets to anywhere they fly, and a gigantic trophy.

"I’m really excited to win this," said Charles, who until recently served as marketing manager for a consulting firm. "I’m really happy I made this career change!"


TEXT OF KOCH'S STATEMENT DECLARING CANDIDACY FOR RE-ELECTION

Following is the text of Mayor Koch's statement announcing that he is a candidate for re-election:

Silence is golden, but now it is time to review the record, take a look at what's been done, assess the candidates and their accomplishments and let the people decide who's best able to lead this city four years closer to the 21st century.

This announcement may have been long in coming, but I hope New Yorkers will find it was worth the wait. Some people say that being Mayor of New York City is the second-toughest job in America. If that's true, it's the only time our city was ever second in anything.

There can be no doubt, however, that being Mayor of New York is the best job in America. It's a job I've worked at seven days a week for seven and a half years. It's a job I love because this is a city that I love.

When I became Mayor in 1978, the challenge was to bring New York City back from the brink of bankruptcy. And we did it. In 1981, the challenge was to rebuild the city and improve services. And we did it. In 1985, the challenge is to finish the job and take New York City all the way back to the top. And I know we can do it.

That's why today I am formally announcing my candidacy for re-election to the office of Mayor of New York City.

Greatness is never given. It is earned. During the years of the fiscal crisis, we learned to be wary of quick and easy answers. Instead, we learned to rely on leadership, experience, hard work and common sense and honesty and new ideas.

These are the themes I will stress in my campaign, and the assets I will bring to the office of Mayor. This is the way we'll earn our way back to greatness again.

It's been a hard climb from the days when Governor Carey, municipal union leaders and scores of other first-rate people in the public and private sectors were struggling heroically to save our city from financial disaster.

For a while, it seemed like weɽ never do it. In 1978, Felix Rohatyn warned New Yorkers to '⟺sten your seat belts'' because the city ''was about to enter a storm fully as dangerous and unpredictable as any we weathered in 1975.''

As Mayor, it was my job to heed that warning. It was my job to give those storm clouds an ultimate silver lining, to make people understand that our sacrifice and suffering would one day be rewarded with the strength and the stability we needed to succeed.

And as we contemplated the hard climb ahead of us, who could have imagined the heights we would reach in 1985? Who could have predicted that we would have completed five consecutive years of balanced budgets and be at the start of our sixth year? Who would have thought that we would regain our investment-grade ratings in the bond markets? Who would have foreseen that we would have embarked upon a 10-year, $41 billion infrastructure rebuilding program - the largest in our city's history?

Who could have guessed that New York's formula for greatness would have brought us so far and so fast?

Last month, Comer Coppie, the executive director of the Financial Control Board, said the following: ''New York is perhaps the most comprehensive and substantial recovery in the history of American cities, and perhaps for any jurisdiction at the state or local level.''

I am proud that New York City earned that praise. We can all be proud of what we've accomplished with leadership, experience, hard work and new ideas.

It was leadership that helped lower the crime rate on our streets, and raise the test scores in our schools.

It was the experience that helped guide the city to fair and responsible labor contracts.

It was hard work that helped the city gain more than a quarter-million new jobs throughout the five boroughs over the last seven and a half years.

It was new ideas, such as all-day kindergarten, eliminating patronage from the summer jobs and antipoverty programs, Operation Pressure Point, and transforming city-owned, in rem apartments into $250 co-ops for low-income families, that helped keep New York City a step ahead.

This formula met with special success in New York because New York adds an extra ingredient - spirit. That spirit grew dim during the fiscal crisis. The entire nation watched with disapproving eyes as we went hat in hand to Washington for Federal loan guarantees. I believe that my administration helped to provide the optimism and vision we needed to restore our faith in ourselves, to revive our spirit.

New Yorkers saw new hope for themselves and for our city. They understood that if we worked together, we could change not only the physical face of the city, but the very faces of our people.

I have seen those faces - the faces of people of every age, every race, every nationality, every faith - at the nearly 100 town hall meetings I have held in every neighborhood of this city. I have looked into the eyes of New Yorkers and have seen a new sense of purpose, vitality, energy, and the knowledge that we are regaining our rightful place as the No. 1 city in the world.

In the four years ahead, the same spirit we brought to the fiscal crisis must be called upon to continue to improve our criminal-justice system, expand our housing stock, fight against the devastating effects of cutbacks in the Federal budget, modernize mass transit, promote economic growth throughout the city, and insure that every child who enters our schools leaves with an education that prepares them for the 21st century.

I am very proud of having had the opportunity to lead New Yorkers through the difficult times. I want to continue to lead them over the next four years. Thank you. God bless.


The New York Restaurant Cookbook: Recipes from the Dining Capital of the World

In a previous lifetime, we went out to dinner. Often. Then our kid arrived. Now we go out less --- much less. And read cookbooks more --- much more.

Especially welcome are books with recipes from New York restaurants that are now, for us, as remote as Lapland. We remember them --- and some of these dishes --- fondly. And it's not in any way sad that the closest we may get to them is to recreate them at home.

'The New York Restaurant Cookbook: Recipes from the City's Best Chefs' is a revised edition of a local favorite. This edition features more than 100 recipes from the city's best restaurants --- with no chef, even the most prolific, getting more than a single recipe here. Florence Fabricant is an ideal tour guide. A regular contributor to The New York Times, she's the author of eight other books, including Park Avenue Potluck: Recipes from New York's Savviest Hostesses if you own it, you know she can go high and special as well as mid-range and effortless. Here, in an introduction that will take New Yorkers and aging visitors down Memory Lane, she also offers --- so gently that you don't feel you're being schooled --- some useful advice: shock blanched vegetables in ice water, add a dollop of butter to sauces, add the pasta to the sauce instead of pouring the sauce over the pasta. And, at the end, she presents a handy list of food sources and restaurants.

Most to the point, she's collected recipes that taste like home cooking even when you have them in a restaurant: the Second Avenue Deli's chicken soup, Tavern on the Green's Caesar salad, onion soup from Capsouto Frères. And then she works up the complexity chain to recipes you may not dream of ordering, much less cooking: Felidia's ricotta and spinach dumplings, Bernadin's codfish with garlic sauce and chorizo essence, Blue Hill's poached duck with farro.


Take a Swedish Culinary Safari with Chef Ulrika Bengtsson

Swedish cuisine is more than just meatballs, and while there are many long-standing culinary traditions in the country, the dishes vary widely based on region. Chef Ulrika Bengtsson is coming to NORTH 2014 to take New York foodies on a culinary safari throughout Sweden. From North to South and East to West, you will familiarize yourself with Swedish dishes both traditional and progressive.

Many New Yorker’s fondly remember Chef Ulrika Bengtsson (and her meatballs) as the owner and Chef of Ulrika’s, which she ran successfully for 7 years, beginning in 1999.

Chef Bengtsson has over 20 years of culinary experience both in New York and Sweden, her home country. After her time at Ulrika’s, she was the head of food and beverage at The Roger Smith Hotel, as well as the Nordic themed restaurant group Smörgås Chef. She has also been featured regularly on TV, both in her native Sweden, and here in her adopted home town of New York City.

The 65 Best Grilling Wines for End of Summer

Date – September 14, 2014
Time – 12pm-3pm
Where – International Culinary Center, 462 Broadway, New York – 10013
How – 3 hour Swedish cooking class led by chef Ulrika Bengtsson

Mandatory family outings to the Detroit farmers' market and nightly home-cooked meals cultivated Annelise's respect and curiosity for food. A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, she spends her free time in New York City recipe testing, eating breakfast all day, and dreaming up international culinary adventures.


In his mission to discover the country&rsquos best breads and pastries, Tom hits cities from coast to coast to shine a light on how local bakeries make life a little sweeter.

Tom's Top Spots

Federal Donuts

The menu here is simple: doughnuts, fried chicken and coffee. The Korean-style chicken is twice-fried to create an extra-crunchy c &hellip

Pagu is an Asian-Spanish tapas restaurant sandwiched between MIT and Harvard. Owner and chef Tracy Chang’s menu is a mix of tradit &hellip

Masri Sweets

Masri Sweets is a Dearborn, Michigan institution famous for Middle Eastern desserts. People come from all over for the kunafa, mel &hellip

Al Ameer Restaurant

Lebanese restaurant is a family legacy carried on by Abbas Ameer. Try their classic shawarma and pillowy pita baked in a pita oven &hellip

Sarcone's Deli

The Junk Yard Special at Sarcone's Deli is anything but a pile of junk. Owner Anthony Bucci stuffs mozzarella, provolone, spinach, &hellip

Beiler’s Bakery

Beiler’s Bakery, located in Reading Terminal Market in Philly, is the place for the ultimate sticky bun. Based on an old-school Pe &hellip

Sister Pie

After working in New York’s best pastry shops, Lisa Ludwinski came home and started Sister Pie. Don’t miss the Banana Pete, a moun &hellip

Maria's Pastry Shop

Boston’s North End is a mecca for Italian bakeries like Maria’s Pastry Shop. The owner, Maria Merola, is famous for her no-nonsens &hellip

Gian Piero Bakery

Gian Piero Bakery is an Italian-American icon and a great place for pastries, bread and legendary rainbow cookies.

The Doughnut Project

This fun graffiti- and Star Wars-themed doughnut shop is churning out some of New York City’s most-inventive and -unique flavors. &hellip

Oda House

Georgian cuisine is all about rich meats, great wine and bread. At Oda House, chef and owner Maia Acquaviva serves almost 20 diffe &hellip

Chene Modern Bakery

Chene Modern Bakery opened in the 1930s, one of their specialties is the paczki, fruit-stuffed Polish doughnuts served with cream.

Creme Caramel LA

Owner Kristine de la Crus experiments with funky, Filipino-inspired crème caramel at her bakery. Her recipes combine traditional F &hellip

Santarpio's Pizza

Santarpio's Pizza is the place to indulge in sausage and peppers. Their handmade sausage is charred over an indoor grill and serve &hellip

Lodge Bread Company

Owners and chefs Alex Phaneuf and Or Amsalam are bread rock stars. Inside their Culver City bakery, they experiment with ancient g &hellip

Flour Bakery + Cafe

Food Network chefs can’t get enough of this cafe’s tantalizing treats that have been featured on four shows. Giada is crazy about &hellip

Bien Cuit

Since opening its doors in July of 2011, Bien Cuit has received heaps of well-deserved praise for their must-try baked goods. When &hellip

Vito's Pizza

Anyone who says they haven’t had great pizza in L.A. hasn’t been to Vito’s. This unassuming shop is the place for New York-style p &hellip

Termini Brothers

Since 1921, this bakery has been the destination for the Holy Grail of Italian desserts: the cannoli. Each batch contains a little &hellip

Kuzzo's Chicken & Waffles

Retired NFL quarterback Ron Bartell opened Kuzzo’s Chicken & Waffles to help boost a stretch of Detroit’s famed Avenue of Fashion. &hellip

Gendusa Bakery

This bakery has been cranking out loaves 20 hours a day, seven days a week since 1922. John Gendusa, the great grandfather of the &hellip

Cafe Reconcile

Since 2001, Café Reconcile has been training at-risk youth in the restaurant business while serving up soul-filled classics.

Canter’s Deli

This late-night California spot is known for its old-school vibe and standout menu rife with Jewish deli staples. A favorite is th &hellip

El Gallo Bakery

People line up early in the morning to get their pan dulce, aka sweet bread, a category of Mexican pastry that comes in many varie &hellip

Zimmer's Seafood

Zimmer’s uses the nearby Gendusa Bakery for their famous shrimp po’ boys.


Dinkins Speech: Retaking the City

New York City's mayoral candidates make dozens of speeches. Sometimes they address a particular issue or audience in a particular way. But more often they use a '➺sic speech,'' which varies little from one occasion to the next.

This speech by David N. Dinkins is the third in a series of texts of such basic speeches.

First of all, thank you for inviting me here today to share with you my determination to take New York City back from the fixers and the corrupters, from the pushers and the muggers - and most of all - from the indifference, the cynicism and the moral decay that have sold out the ideals and the soul of this city.

With your help, I intend to be a mayor who appeals to what is best in our people, not one who exploits divisions and apprehensions for a momentary political advantage.

With your help, I intend to be a mayor who stands for the rule of law - from the offices of City Hall, to the streets of every neighborhood and the jogging paths of every park.

With your help, I intend to be a mayor who says that this city is not for sale - and who knows that a mayor has a higher duty than pleading that he didn't happen to notice the dirty dealing all around him. . . . .

My campaign, our cause, is about change - not for its own sake, not simply as a matter of reaction or dissatisfaction, but change for a purpose, change nourished and guided by the fundamental democratic values, the progressive values, that are the best heritage and hope of New York City.

We cannot be content with a mayor who has forgotten those values - or with a candidate who doesn't share them.

I believe that the next mayor has to be committed both to integrity - and to social justice. . . . .

New York may not wear its heart on its sleeve but it has a conscience. We are a beautiful mosaic - a community of individuals and families from every racial, religious and ethnic background - and working together, we can achieve greatness.

There are some who still misread the character of this city - who believe that we no longer care about working women and men that leadership has to be cynical and divisive that the people in the neighborhoods have given up and that the politics of intolerance is too powerful to overcome.

But I reject the view - popular in some quarters - that New York's best days are behind us - that this city is unlivable and unworkable, that it can't be governed and that our streets can't be made safe. . . . .

There are specific things we have to do to redeem the promise of this city and the true purpose of its government. . . . .

This greatest of urban centers - this city that we share and we love - is a city under siege.

Whole neighborhoods are fast becoming free-fire zones. Some of our housing projects have become base camps for armies of drug dealers. And too often we hear of roving gangs raining terror on our subways, on our streets and in our parks.

In my first time as mayor I will double the number of community patrol police officers on the beat. And I will guarantee that there will be a cop on every subway train, every night of the year.

I'll fund community anti-crime groups in every borough and I'll rededicate our criminal justice system to a very basic proposition: every crime must be punished.

I don't care if it's your first offense I don't care if you ''just'' stole a car for the night or if you ''just'' took a few dollars from a kid on the street. . . . .

We need a mayor who can see beyond that day's headlines - a mayor who knows that it's cheaper to repair a bridge now than to rebuild it later - a mayor who understands why the $4,500 a year it costs to educate a student is so much more valuable than the $80,000 a year it costs to lock up a juvenile delinquent.

We need to focus on affordable housing - by rehabilitating existing buildings, developing low- and middle-income housing and demanding Federal housing policies that provide help for the homeless instead of sweetheart deals for H.U.D. contractors.

And we have to shape a new economic strategy to guide New York into the 21st century. Any business leader will tell you, the most important decisions about our economic future are not being made in the boardrooms, but in the classrooms of our public schools.

What will happen to this city if a third of all our students continue to drop out of school, including 50 percent of African-Americans and 60 percent of Latinos? . . . .

I'm calling for a Marshall Plan for education - to treat teaching as a profession, to increase community involvement, to set up special units to intervene in crisis schools. . . . .

I'm convinced that we have to make the schools of New York drug-free zones - that we can no longer allow drug dealers to poison the very minds we are trying to teach. . . . .

Let's convey the message, in word and in deed, that drugs are wrong, not fashionable. . . . .

We must take back the streets - and take back the night.

I know what lies ahead of me as Mayor of New York City. I know how crime has escalated. It has become an ugly giant that threatens us daily.

And we all know the Bible story about a giant who threatened the people of Israel. His name was Goliath, and one day he was slain by a fellow known as David.

Well, my name is David and I am determined to take on Goliath. . . . .

And victory in September and November is only the beginning of the journey. We won't finish it overnight. But we will end the long twilight of principle in City Hall. We will replace wisecracks with wisdom. We will be activist and strong and hopeful. We will make this city work. We will make it safe. And we will bring New York together. Above all else, I hope to make you proud - and to make this city a proud and safe and peaceful place once again.


City Slickers Take to the Crops, With Song

IT was prime growing weather on Shelter Island, N.Y., as a breeze blew in from Dering Harbor, and Bennett Konesni was tending to his field of dreams: three neatly planted acres of bok choy, cauliflower, kale, Asian mustard greens, spinach, garlic, lettuce, onions, potatoes and leeks, with room for the peppers, eggplants and 15 varieties of tomatoes soon to be transplanted. Coming to a plot of leafy snap peas, inspiration struck. Suddenly he erupted in a full-throttle rendition of “Oats, Peas, Beans and Barley Grow”: “Do you, or I, or anyone know/How oats, peas, beans and barley grow?”

For the record, Mr. Konesni, part of a thriving crop of young American farmers, does.

Was anyone listening to his impromptu serenade? Who cared?

This is how work gets done on Sylvester Manor.

For the past couple of summers, the manor has resounded with music as Mr. Konesni, a scholar of work songs, has pushed his family’s ancestral estate into the next era with the help of some strong-voiced volunteers.

Now a nonprofit educational enterprise, the manor is among the New York-area farms attracting locavores, green-minded students and urbanites suffering from nature-deficit disorder who yearn to raise produce and livestock for a day, a week or longer.

“There’s this incredible boom right now,” Mr. Konesni said, “a broad and deep interest in creating vibrant local food communities and the landscapes that go with them.”

Scott Chaskey, the farmer-poet who oversees Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett, N.Y., where Mr. Konesni apprenticed in 2001, said he had worried that his volunteer and community-sponsored agriculture programs might flag with the economy — only to see the demand grow.

And the six-year-old volunteer force at the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture in Pocantico Hills, N.Y., is steadily increasing, drawing participants from Manhattan, Brooklyn, Westchester County, Connecticut and New Jersey, said Jill S. Isenbarger, the center’s executive director.

“People are really interested in getting their hands dirty and experiencing nature, if you will, through farming,” Ms. Isenbarger said. “For some folks, it’s a way to apply what they learn through us and take that back to their own communities or gardens.”

Others, like the New York City couple whose five-year plan involved trading in real-estate development for a chicken farm, want to sample the lifestyle before making a midcareer change.

“Of course,” Ms. Isenbarger added with a laugh, “come the first 95-degree day out in the fields, a lot of people rethink it.”

Time was when Shelter Island — 8,000 acres nestled between the North and South Forks of Long Island — belonged to the Sylvester family, who settled here in 1651 as part of an English and Dutch consortium that supplied produce, livestock and oak barrels to the sugar trade in Barbados.

Worked by indentured and enslaved Africans and American Indians until 1827, the manor shipped cheeses, hams and candles to New London, Conn., and Rhode Island ports as early as the 1740s. In the 19th century it was home to Eben Norton Horsford, considered the father of modern food chemistry and the inventor of the first calcium phosphate baking powder.

The property, whittled down over the years to 243 acres, has been overseen since 2007 by Mr. Konesni, 27, a great-great-great-great grandson of Horsford and the 15th generation of the Sylvester family to call the manor home.

On this balmy afternoon Sylvester Manor was abuzz — with workers and insects — though no one seemed to be rethinking anything.

Out in the Windmill Field, named for the 1810 wind-powered gristmill that once ground grain into flour, Gunnar Wisseman, the longtime caretaker, was tilling sod in preparation for planting clover, the better to squeeze out quack grass and poison ivy.

Down the road at the 1735 Georgian mansion, Edith Gawler, an architecture student and fiddler who is Mr. Konesni’s fiancée, was staffing the office, which oversees volunteer and education programs. (A banjo-making course is scheduled for June 7 through 12, and a work song workshop for June 17.)

Inside the barn, Zoë Wonfor, an intern from Calgary, Alberta, and John Costa, an M.B.A. student from Antioch University New England in Keene, N.H., had returned from the greenhouse and were now counting seeds.

And at the movable chicken house, Brooklyn schoolchildren examined eggs, while Araucana, Silver Speckled Hamburg and Naked Neck breeds pecked at their feet.

Volunteers may apply for short-term slots — normally, a day or two — by e-mail, to [email protected] Those who would like to stay longer must submit an application and have a series of interviews.

Mr. Costa, a native of Bangladesh, had been lured to Sylvester Manor by a shared interest with Mr. Konesni in bringing the arts into sustainability, he said. A student of capoeira, the Afro-Brazilian practice that combines martial arts with music and dance, he balked at capoeira’s singing requirements. But although the bashful Mr. Costa had been there for only a day, Mr. Konesni had already introduced him to the farm’s unwritten tenet: you work, you sing.

In 2005 Mr. Konesni was awarded a Watson Fellowship to travel the globe for a year and learn work songs from Ghana, the Netherlands, Mongolia, Tanzania and Switzerland. He has since woven his musical gleanings into the tapestry of the manor, whose earliest laborers might have sung some of those same tunes while toiling in its fields.

Songing, as Mr. Konesni calls it, “is not about being a professional singer,” he said. “The Swiss call it juuz, which means erupting into joyful noise.”

“It may not turn work into play, exactly, but it makes it more tolerable and ultimately more profitable,” Mr. Konesni explained, noting that the rhythm and momentum created by singing in unison help workers cope with physical exertion and tedium.

“Sometimes we end up singing what’s on Long Island’s Top 20,” Ms. Wonfor admitted. “Lady Gaga is really popular out in the field.”

“Paparazzi” in the potato patch?

Though Mr. Konesni’s repertory ranges from slave anthems to a form of Swiss yodeling used to communicate with livestock, the point, he said, is to get through the work — the beating sun, the back-breaking kneeling and bending, the bugs — while having fun.

“We’re hoping to make a successful farm, a farm that is effective and self-sustaining, and encourage a culture of food that is joyful and fair,” Mr. Konesni said. “We’re shaping the world around us in a way we love.”


Food Handlers Must Take New City Hygiene Course

Citing the recent rise in health violations reported at food‐handling establishments, the Health Service Administration announced yesterday that it would require restaurants and food stores to send representatives to a special course in environmental sanitation the agency was starting today.

Dr. Joseph A. Cimino, the city's Health Commissioner, said priority in enrollment for the course would be given to food establishments already charged with violating the Health Code. Within two years, he said, all of the city's 17,000 restaurants and food stores will be required to send a supervisory employe to the course.

“This is the first time that the city is making it mandatory for restaurants to go through course of this kind,” Dr. Cimino said in an interview. “We're toughening up our regulations so that New Yorkers will receive more food protection through cleaner restaurants.”

The requirement will apply to all establishments that handle or process foods, Dr. Cimino explained, including res

taurants, delicatessens and markets that sell unpackaged food over the counter. Supermarkets will not normally be in this category, he said.

The week‐long course will be given by Health Department personnel and will cost $25 a person, to be paid by the restaurants and food stores. Ses

sions will last from 8 to 11 A.M. Participants will be taught how to maintain cleanliness, prevent food poisoning, handle and store food and keep out rats and insects.

The classes will he conducted in the Environmental Health Training Center, Room222, at 125 Worth Street. Because there are so many ethnic food establishments in the city, Dr. Cimino said, the Health Department will soon give the course in Chinese and Spanish and hopes to extend it later to Greek and Italian.

Most restaurateurs contacted in a random check yesterday approved of the course.

“I think every restaurant operator should be thoroughly acquainted with the basics of hygiene and food protection,” said Duncan Doo, the owner of the Fu Shin Restaurant, 318 East 86th Street. “The course is a good idea.”

Leon Lianides, owner of the Coach House, 110 Waverly Place, said the course would be “just right for all those interested in maintaining a decent restaurant—and I think the $25 fee is quite fair, too.”

While efforts to reach officials of the Restaurant League of New York, which represents many of the food establishments in the city, were unsuccessful, Ray Godfrey, a spokesman for the Health Services Administration, said the idea for the course had been discussed with restaurant representatives as well as with the New York State Restaurant Owners Association.

“We received enthusiastic and overwhelming support,” Mr. Godfrey said. In the past, some restaurant‐organization officials have criticized the Health Department, which is an arm of the Health Services Administration, for clamping down too hard on restaurants during inspections.

But yesterday, the Health Commissioner stressed that there was no such thing as “too hard an inspection.”

While Dr. Cimino, who was reached at home, did not have precise figures available, he said about 30 establishments got orders to close each week as a result of field inspections and follow‐up action by Health Department personnel. Until few months ago, he said the figure was about 10.

Health Code violators now get two chances to correct their errors. After that, the violations are made public. If inspectors find the violation persists, the Health Department orders the business to close.

Last month, a Health Department official said the new compulsory classes would be conducted only for Health Code violators. But yesterday, Dr. Cimino stressed that the course would be compulsory for all food establishments.

Dr. Cimino said that in the past his agency conducted free “informal classes” about food protection. Health Code violators were urged to attend, but attendance was not compulsory and the instruction was “not elaborate.”

But now, added Gordon Chase, the Health Services Administrator, summonses will be served on the businesses—particularly Code violators—who fail to register for the course. And a worker who takes the course will receive a diploma that the food establishment can display along with its operating license.


Call 'Food Delivery Startups' By Their Real Name: Restaurants

Food delivery startups sound good enough to be the next big tech trend.

Most recently, there's Maple, the David Chang-backed company that launched in lower Manhattan with $12 lunches and $15 dinners, including delivery. My Forbes colleague Alex Konrad tried it out, and it looks tasty.

Maple is only the newest such startup. There's Sprig and SpoonRocket, Munchery and Blue Apron, Forage and Hello Fresh, Plated and PlateJoy and Gobble. Uber just launched UberEATS in Chicago and New York. GrubHub bought Restaurants on the Run and Square bought Caviar to add delivery to their portfolios. I've probably missed at least two or three more.

It's tempting to say that the 'food delivery space' is getting crowded, despite variations on the model (delivering just raw ingredients and a recipe, or partially-cooked food and a recipe, or 3 options for fully cooked meals, or 6 options, or a subscription model, or partnerships with restaurants, or vegan and healthy, or you get the idea.)

But that would be a lie. The space is crowded because they aren't competing with each other--they're competing with hundreds of thousands of traditional restaurants. The differences between these companies and their restaurant brethren are basically nonexistent. They have a kitchen, they prepare food, they deliver it to customers. It's rare to find a restaurant that doesn't already do that--often with 20 times the number of available entrees cooked to order.

Take New York City. The Wall Street Journal says there are more than 27,000 restaurants and bars here. Seamless alone claims to let you order delivery from more than 7,197 of them. Near Union Square, there are 509 restaurants on Seamless ready to deliver lunch. There are 207 back in Brooklyn who will send prepared food to my apartment and 121 in range of Forbes' new office across the Hudson in Jersey City. Many more will deliver if you take the time to order over the phone. Multiply that by dozens of menu options and you see how small these new companies really are in the broader industry of meal delivery.

New York, for sure, is an outlier in its density of good food options. But that density is also what attracts these tech startups new restaurants. They may not have a storefront, but kitchen space and food costs remain expensive, and neither scale particularly well. Until drones or self-driving cars take it over, human beings in scooters and bikes will scurry around delivering dinner, a costly manual workforce. In order to eventually eek out margins in a competitive and expensive marketplace, these companies will need serious scale, logistics breakthroughs, and still may never expand beyond a rudimentary menu.

That's not to say they can't be successful, especially in a barrier-free market. Spring CEO Gagan Biyani told Recode that he believes his company is the largest restaurant in San Francisco by number of servings per meal (whether it's the most profitable is another matter). That's a tremendous accomplishment, but it doesn't quite explain a $150 million valuation. Again from Recode:

“If it turned out technology didn’t matter and this were just a restaurant, that would not feel like an investment for venture capital,” said Simon Rothman of Greylock Partners, which has invested in each of Sprig’s three funding rounds. “It can feel deceivingly ops-focused. But you know you’ve got tech when you have a team as young and small as Sprig and you have data scientists.”

My advice to David Chang: don't invest in 'food delivery startups.' Just make your existing restaurant staff look younger, hire some data scientists, and call yourself a tech company. It'll do wonders for your valuation.


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